Behind the scenes
Insights into the Expovina Wine Trophy
In Zurich's Technopark, countless refrigerators are hidden behind a heavy door. Inside, black-wrapped bottles of wine are lined up at the perfect temperature. It is already clear here that the organizers are leaving no detail to chance. This is necessary because the standards of the International Organization of Vine and Wine (OIV), which ensure the blind tasting process and the objectivity of the results, are strict. This includes, among other things, that each wine intended for tasting is given several numbers in order to avoid any conclusions about the producer. For this reason, the capsules are also removed from the bottles. A logistical tour de force is required until the 1580 wines from 21 countries reach the 120 jurors in the adjoining room one by one.
The concentration at the tables there is intense. The five experts per group evaluate each wine according to a twelve-part evaluation scheme, which includes color, smell, taste and harmony. On an electronic tablet, everyone awards points for each sample, up to a maximum of 100. The table secretary reports the average score for the wine just tasted. If there are major deviations of 10 points or more in the evaluation, a discussion follows so that a balanced overall judgment can be made.
Blick wine editor Isabelle Thürlemann-Brigger spoke to the man who pulls all the strings at the event: Ivan Barbic, technical director, co-jury president and Master of Wine.
Blick: Mr. Barbic, are wine awards a success or a discontinued model?
Ivan Barbic: The development in Switzerland shows that the number of wine awards is increasing. The Expovina Wine Trophy was the first international wine award in this country. There are now awards with different focal points, which focus on Swiss wine, specific
Swiss wine, specific wine-growing regions or individual grape varieties. Today, most wine-growing cantons have their own awards. Organizers have to distinguish themselves and stand out from the competition.
What do you see as the advantage of wine awards?
In Switzerland, there was only one trade magazine about wine when the Expovina Wine Trophy was founded. Today, it is easier to obtain information on wine quality. For consumers, the award-winning wines are still an important purchase recommendation. Producers and wine merchants are given an orientation as to how well the wines in their range are received on the market.
What do you think about the quality of Swiss wine?
Swiss wine is highly regarded by connoisseurs. People no longer turn up their noses. Twenty years ago, things were very different. You would hear in the media that Rioja was being served in Swiss embassies. Today, this is no longer conceivable, as the quality level of Swiss wine is now very high. This is also shown by the regular comparative tastings in Blick. Swiss wines often win or at least come out on top. At the Expovina Wine Trophy, we mixed Swiss and international wines in the tasting series for the first time this year. A distinction is outdated due to the level of quality and style achieved. Our jurors welcome this innovation.
The Expovina Wine Trophy has responded to trends and is awarding prizes to PiWi wines (wines from resistant grape varieties) and natural wines for the first time this year. Will other categories follow?
PiWi and natural wines have now become firmly established on the Swiss market. We have taken this situation into account. That's two new products at once. It should be borne in mind that wine production is a traditional and conservative industry. Legally speaking, little innovation is possible. The "low alcohol" category could become an issue. However, non-alcoholic wines are not, because they are not legally considered wine.
What was your biggest surprise at a wine award?
This year I had to stand in as a taster in the white wine category. This included two Gewürztraminer wines that had been matured in wood. This is very rare for aromatic varieties. One of these wines was perfect in every respect and showed typical aromas of the grape variety on the finish. The producer succeeded in making a multi-layered wine without obscuring the character of the Gewürztraminer. I also find wines submitted from lesser-known countries such as Armenia, Moldova or Cyprus exciting. There are always great discoveries among them.
You taste countless wines at an award ceremony. How do you keep a clear head?
It's important to arrive at the tasting well rested and physically fit. A good rhythm during the tasting is also important. It shouldn't be too fast. Our software is precisely coordinated and allows a maximum of three minutes per wine. I drink a lot of water after each wine so that the taste buds and palate can recover. I can't drink more than 40-50 wines a day.
Source: Blick online